As my 12 year old son Sean and I were sitting on the small river waiting for a wood duck to hopefully present itself on this years opening day youth hunt we admired the leaves blowing in the soft warm September breeze. My black lab Buster was nodding off in a sun spot when suddenly the calm broke as the quite "tweet’ tweet"became louder and louder. "Take um Sean" I said as he stood and fired on the wood duck. Plop the woody hit the water and "SPLASH" my dog Buster also hit the water. The dog had broke (left for the retrieve before being sent) and was now swimming hard for the duck. The duck was still alive and Buster was preventing Sean from putting the kill shot on the woody. Buster was to excited to stop even though I was yelling at him. By the time I got the e-collar in my hand the wood duck had gone under the water never to be seen again.

Buster was an eight year old AKC Senior Hunter and in hunt tests or training never broke, but this time it was just to much for him. The next time Sean shot at a duck my collar was in hand and Buster learned a important reminder.

Having a steady dog isn’t only going to save you more ducks, it could save your life. You don’t want a dog tipping you out of your boat on a cold November day while duck hunting. Believe me your hunting buddies wont be impressed to see your dog break on every bird and their steady dogs never getting to retrieve. Steadeness is also required in field trials and hunt tests.

After a pup has obtained a high desire to retrieve we must be fair to the dog by never allowing him to break for the bird without being sent. This is simply done by holding him until you release him on every retrieve.

When the dog has been through obedeince training he should know what "stay" means. Start using a short lead that the dog can have on while running. About 12 to 18 inches long with a choker collar on. If he pulls on the lead while the helper is throwing the bird or prior to being sent, tug back on the lead say "stay" and whack him with the whip in the chest. A whip is nessasary because after time the dog may get used to you tugging back on the leash and just accept it. If the dog is collar trained you can nick him when he pulls.

Alternate sending him from one to five seconds after the bird hits the ground. On some retrieves send him a second or two after the bird hits the ground. Most times he should be sent on a count of three to five. This will keep him waiting for the release better.

He must never receive his reward for breaking. In other words, the bird thrower must know that if the dog breaks and cannot be called back by the handler he must run out and get the bird before the dog does. Even if the handler calls the dog back before he gets the bird. The helper should go out and get the bird. Than you can tell the dog "no, no" and rerun him.

Inconsistant trainers have the dogs that break and creep the most. Creeping is when the dog inches his way forward while the birds are being thrown. Some dogs are so good at it that their butts never really leave the ground. Creepers are notorious for breaking. Nip this in the bud the moment it starts. Pull the dog back the moment he starts to move forward telling him "no". Than take him for a short walk, bring him back and rerun. The dog will soon figure out he wont get the reward of the retrieve unless he’s steady.

A good steadiness excersise is to kind of set him up for a break that you can control. A long rope about twenty feet long with a 12 inch piece of wood dowel or broom stick handle tied to one end so you can get a good hold of it. Cut the rope in half and tie a stout bungy chord in the middle of both pieces of rope. This will prevent injury to the dog. Live birds are great for this drill. Wing clip or tie up a live pigeon or duck and have a helper stand about twenty yards in front of you. Have the helper start yelling "hey, hey, hey"and shoot four or five times, then have him imedeitly throw the bird. This creates the upmost excitement. Wait a long count of ten letting the bird walk or flap out in front of him. If your dog doesn’t move you’ve done a great job of steadying him. Send him for the bird and when he returns give him lots of praise. Put the dog away and try it again later.

If he breaks, let him get to the end of the rope and hold on. When he gets there he’ll get yanked to a stop by the rope, yell "no,no"and bring him back in. Rerun the drill after at least ten minutes. If he breaks again, just as soon as he is out in front of you hit the button on his collar with a fair amount of stimulation. Say "no, no" and bring him back in. Do it again about fifteen minutes later and if he breaks again burn him with the collar on a higher stimulation setting. Bring him back to you, tell him "stay" and whack him in the chest with the whip or heeling stick.

You may get some whining or barking during this drill and this should also be dealt with the same way. The dog whines, he gets no reward. If he makes noise, hold his mouth closed telling him "quite, quite". Take him for a short walk, bring him back and try it again. I know this is difficult with dogs that are noisy but you must be consistant.

Some dogs are difficult to ever get a handle on breaking and creeping but if you stay consistant in your training and try to never let him get his reward after breaking you should have a fairly steady dog.

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